![]() Eventually the bottom of the wave slows drastically and the wave topples over as a breaker. There is a growing proportion of back and forth motion and less up and down motion as the wave moves through shallower and shallower water. Orbital motions of water molecules becomes increasingly elliptical, especially on the bottom. The waves get closer together and taller. Waves at the Shoreline: As a wave approaches the shore it slows down from drag on the bottom when water depth is less than half the wavelength (L/2). At a depth of one-half the wavelength the orbital waver motion is nearly zero (actually 4% of the surface orbital diameter). This orbital motion is greatest at the sea surface and decreases with depth below the surface. The result is that water molecules move in orbital paths as waves pass. After the crest the water molecules move down and backward. Open Ocean Waves: As a wave passes, water molecules rise up and move forward (in the direction of wave motion) until the crest passes. The period (T) is the time between passage of successive wave crests (or troughs). The wavelength (L) is the distance between two crests (or troughs). The wave height (amplitude) is the difference in height between the crest and the trough. Waves have crests (high spots) and troughs (low spots). The greater the fetch (area over which the wind is blowing - size of storm) the larger the waves. The greater the duration of the wind (or storm) the larger the waves. The greater the wind speed the larger the waves. Wave height in the open ocean is determined by three factors. The part "]]" of the query was not understood.Results might not be as expected.The shoreline is affected by waves (produced by wind at sea) and tides (produced by the gravitational effect of the moon and sun).
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